Making an attempt to map the varied flavours of Mumbai in any kind is a difficult activity. The ever-extending, ever-evolving metropolis typically eludes categorisation. This fluidity is charmingly irritating and practically at all times fascinating to research. We lately dined at Aamchee, a vegetarian cafe devoted to celebrating Mumbai in a nostalgic manner. And, by way of exploring town’s dynamism, it supplied us with a lot meals for thought (in addition to consumption, in fact). Aamchee was established by Pinky Chandan Dixit, who can be the power behind the legendary restaurant Soam. The Maharashtrian identify interprets to “ours” and is an endearing epithet typically connected to town (chances are you’ll come throughout the phrases “Amchi Mumbai”).
Photograph Credit score: Aamchee
The cosy cafe tries to map Mumbai on a menu, via traditional bites and barely reinterpreted street-style snacks. At its coronary heart, it is about spotlightlighting the vibrancy of a few of Mumbai’s communities and histories. Sure strategies are novel, however the choices at Aamchee hardly ever enterprise into the unfamiliar or the uncomfortably experimental. “Whereas making an attempt to do one thing totally different, it is necessary that we additionally respect the unique. I really feel very strongly about this. If I am recreating a dish, I do not need to twist it so badly that it loses its essence and flavour,” Pinky tells me. Our expertise throughout the meal would go on to mirror this dedication to steadiness.
Photograph Credit score: Aamchee
A lot of the dishes are both named after or influenced by beloved flavours from totally different neighbourhoods of town. There is a Matunga Rasam, Nariman Chaat Salad, Shivaji Park Veggie Loaded Thaalipeeth and Zaveri Bazaar Makai Upma, to quote just a few examples. For somebody who has grown up or spent a few years in Mumbai, these echoes may be heartwarming. That is additionally a mirrored image of Aamchee’s private quite than collective roots. “For me, meals is a reminiscence financial institution. A few of these dishes have come from there – they’re influenced by meals and experiences my staff and I had rising up and over time in Mumbai,” Pinky clarifies.
Khatta Thela salad. Photograph Credit score: Toshita Sahni
We began our meal with the Khatta Thela salad, a favorite of the night. This distinctive deal with pays homage to the decadently bitter choices of handcarts that was once frequent exterior faculties and workplaces. The zesty flavour in Aamchee’s model is derived from totally different components, nonetheless. “We need to create dishes which can be interesting not simply as soon as, however repeatedly. They don’t seem to be meant to compete with different comparable dishes however discover their very own id,” Pinky explains. Our yummy bowl got here loaded with uncooked mango, uncooked papaya, dried berries and starfruit, tossed in a light-weight, tangy dressing. We have been additionally stunned to find small items of chikki that introduced all the weather collectively fairly nicely.
Photograph Credit score: Aamchee
We additionally tried Aamchee’s tackle town’s well-known road meals: the Vada Pav Sliders. The snack is elegantly alongside 4 spicy condiments (chilli pickle, lehsun thecha, peri peri, hirva thecha) for every corresponding portion. We preferred the melt-in-the-mouth softness of the sliders, however as native Mumbaikars, we could not assist however crave extra spiciness.
Dal Tikki Chaat. Photograph Credit score: Toshita Sahni
Among the many small plates, the Dal Tikki Chaat did higher justice to its road origins. Impressed by the chole tikki of Chembur Sindhi camp, it was a flavour-packed indulgence (as chaats ought to be). Subsequent, we went with quite a novel possibility: Aam Papad Dahi Kebabs. The kebabs have been on the lighter, airier aspect and enclosed a chunk of the tangy fruit sweet within the centre.
Kala Khatta Slushie. Photograph Credit score: Toshita Sahni
As we binged, we sipped on the cooling Kokum Spritzer and Spicy Pomegranate Paloma. Aamchee has traditional espresso, tea and milkshake choices too. For a quintessential Bombay expertise, you would possibly need to go for the Irani chai. However if you happen to’re in search of one thing chilly, we extremely advocate the Slushies – particularly the Kala Khatta flavour. We decimated our glass as we walked down reminiscence lane, considering of seashore outings and trip days spent slurping tangy, icy golas in our childhood.
Photograph Credit score: Aamchee
Aamchee’s location accentuates its allure. From the arched home windows, you’ll be able to spy a part of the Girgaum Chowpatty seashore within the distance. Inside, the atmosphere goals to seize the nostalgic attract of Bombay, with excessive ceilings, intricately patterned tiles, classic wood jalis, and inexperienced additions that should recall iconic gardens across the metropolis. The decor and menu even have echoes of the old-world gymkhana and membership settings, Pinky tells me. They might now be primarily related to the Mumbai (or Bombay) of a bygone period, however that solely aligns with the theme. Whereas the atmosphere is a credit score to the expertise of Salonee Kothari of Studio SKO, the wallpapers are designed by Krsnaa Mehta of India Circus and there’s additionally inventive art work by Mena Malgavkar.
Sindhi Sai Bhaji Meal. Photograph Credit score: Aamchee
For the principle course, Aamchee spoils you for selection, with dishes starting from native favourites like Varan Bhaat and Sindhi Sai Bhaji Meal to cafe classics like Mac and Cheese and Khow Suey. We loved the Aamchee Thecha Rolls with Misal. As an alternative of the common pav, the spicy curry-like delicacy was paired with a flaky roll infused with inexperienced thecha. It launched us to a novel new pairing that was really tasty. If you would like much less chatpata however nonetheless healthful, the Sion da Stuffed Paratha would possibly do the trick. Select between home-style aloo (potato) or paneer parathas, served with flavoured butter, pickle and boondi raita.
Photograph Credit score: Aamchee
On the subject of dessert, Aamchee’s vary doesn’t disappoint both. Practically each possibility appeared to spell indulgence and luxury. We savoured a creamy and loaded Kulfi Falooda, which is an ode to the Crawford Market model. We took our time relishing the mixture of malai kulfi, rabdi, vermicelli strands, nuts and rose syrup, sabja, as we watched the sundown infuse the sky and sea with vivid colors exterior the window.
The place: Soni Constructing, Dadi Sheth Wadi, Malabar Hill, Mumbai.