Traditional Kashmiri jewellery finds a fresh, modern twist in Ratika Kaul’s designs

Ratika Kaul
| Photograph Credit score: Particular Association

India has all the time been fascinated by gold. We now have worn, invested and treasured this metallic over centuries. In its chinks, lie the sentimental worth of being handed down for generations within the types of bangles, chains, earrings, and cash. “We’re so eager on gold jewelry not simply because it appears good, but additionally due to the power it carries,” says Chennai-based jewelry designer Ratika Kaul.

This Kashmiri who has been settled in Chennai for 28 years, has not too long ago launched iterations of a conventional gold decoration from the northernmost a part of the nation referred to as the dejhor to her assortment.

A slender, intricate gold decoration, the dejhor is a talisman of heritage that’s worn by the Kashmiri Pandit bride earlier than the marriage processions to mark her transition into womanhood. It has three elements — a sequence, the primary hexagon formed decoration and the allure that hangs on the finish. The chain goes over the ear and hangs as little as the chest. “The dejhor is worn in a non secular ceremony on the purple thread earlier than the marriage by the bride and mantras are chanted into it. It really works as a allure or an amulet for defense and prosperity,” says Ratika talking concerning the cultural significance of this decoration.

The collection of dejhors designed by Ratika makes it attainable for the trendy brides to carry their traditions shut whereas maintaining with the evolving aesthetics of their life. “After I first began designing jewelry, this was one of many first items as a result of I noticed a number of potential and room for experimentation,” she says placing on a conventional dejhor by way of her personal inner-ear piercing. 

Though historically worn by Kashmiri brides, the dejhor has gained recognition not too long ago and has been tailored by brides of varied different cultures. “I had a Kerala bride come personally to order a dejhor for her wedding ceremony and there have additionally been Punjabis. I get a number of orders additionally from overseas,” she says, including that she has designed miniature dejhors which were flying off the cabinets resulting from their ease of carrying.

Right this moment, her designs embrace dejhors that may also be worn by ladies who shouldn’t have an inside ear or perhaps a lobe piercing. “I’ve varied collections with totally different types — one with intricate particulars, one with botanical accents, one with pearls and shells, and I plan to make dejhors in each type.”

“I’m planning on placing collectively a collection of Tibetan items with corals, impressed by jewelry from Leh and there will probably be a dejhor in that collection as properly,” she concludes.

Ratika’s Designer Jewelry dejhors can be found beginning ₹13,500. For extra particulars, Instagram @ratika.kaul or name 9840266669.