Designer Geethica Naidu tracing the journey of Pashmina from Ladakh to Bengaluru

Bengaluru-based designer Geethica Naidu’s debut assortment, Pashm, is an ode to the breathtaking landscapes and wealthy nomadic heritage of Ladakh. The usage of pashmina presents a glimpse into the wealthy, conventional craftsmanship of the area.

The gathering was impressed by the individuality of the fibre and a deep curiosity to grasp Pashmina’s origins and the lifetime of nomadic communities. It was created to honour their lifestyle and convey their story to the forefront by design.

Pashm contains trench coats, lengthy vest clothes, pleated skirts and fitted blazer jackets, with a color palette with dominant shades of brown, in line with the undyed pure hues of pashmina wool.

Chatting with Geethica from her studio AME in Mathikere in Bengaluru, looks like an extension of her assortment, from partitions displaying images of her nomadic journey to a loom centrepiece, the studio is the place the guests can get a glimpse of the nomadic lifetime of Ladakh in addition to her assortment.

AME design studio.
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Elaborating on the gathering, Geethica traced the fascinating journey of pashmina — from the high-altitude landscapes of Leh to her studio in Bengaluru.

Free grazing of Pashmina goats.
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Grand strand

The story of pashmina, begins from the mighty Himalayas, amidst the rugged terrains of Kharnak, 1400 ft above sea degree. Right here, a small group of nomadic herders have been tending to the uncommon and distinctive Changthangi goats for generations, aside from their flocks of sheep and yak.

Within the excessive chilly of Himalayan winters, the Changthangi goats develop a heat undercoat — a gentle protecting layer that sustains them by the harshest months. “It’s this protecting layer that turns into the best cashmere,” says Geethica.

the interior uncoat fastidiously combed by nomads.
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On the onset of summer time, the interior undercoat is fastidiously combed and harvested by nomads, relieving the animals of their winter development. “This entire course of is testomony of a mutual bond between herders and their flock; the herders take care of the animals, who in flip present them with their wool.” It’s a cycle that’s deeply entrenched in Ladakh’s pastoral custom.

As soon as the fibre is collected, it’s meticulously cleaned of any particles or stray hair, guaranteeing that solely the best wool stays. Nevertheless, what was as soon as a handbook course of utilizing age-old strategies, has been changed by technological developments.

“As we speak, the uncooked wool travels all the way down to processing models in Srinagar, the place machines make the cleansing course of much less laborious. One can usually harvest about 300-400 grams of wool from a single Changthangi goat, however as soon as processed, what stays is nearly 60 grams of sentimental wool. That is what makes pashmina extraordinarily uncommon and costly.”

It won’t go extinct instantly, however within the close to future we’re seeing it occur, not less than the nomadic life, says Geethica.
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After cleansing, the wool then finds its strategy to artisans, the place it’s painstakingly separated into advantageous strands. “Every thread is then spun by hand, carrying a heat and essence of the land it comes from.” Historically, wool is later shifted for dyeing in pure colors. “For Pashm, every bit is crafted in undyed pure hues which can be symbolic of our model and resonate with in the present day’s world wardrobe.”

Uncommon luxurious

Nevertheless, pashmina, which is synonymous with luxurious within the Western world, is on the point of extinction. “Now that metropolis life beckons, we see many nomads leaving their ancestral houses and shifting there. Their wants have modified; they need their kids to get an schooling and discover a job within the metropolis.”

Therefore, what’s left are the older era, struggling to maintain the craft alive. “It won’t vanish instantly, however within the close to future it’s going to occur. Even when individuals proceed to rear these goats in Leh, the altitude makes a whole lot of distinction, because it impacts the fibre high quality. Ladakh has the harshest winter which creates the softest fibre.”

“One factor we will do as designers is usher in consciousness by our merchandise; the patron should know these tales to ensure that the craft to outlive. For this assortment, we sourced wool instantly from nomads as they hardly receives a commission sufficient for this labour-intensive course of,” says Geethica.

Each bit in Pashm is a mirrored image of Geethica’s travels from Leh and the time she spent with the nomads. “After I envisioned this assortment, I didn’t need to depend on simply books and analysis, so we determined to journey up there. The largest problem was the altitude and getting in contact with the nomads. We had been fortunate sufficient to be graciously accepted into their group and the time I spent with these households is mirrored in my assortment.”

“Essentially the most stunning a part of Pashmis that what began as a textile recce grew to become extra of a religious journey on the oral histories of nomadic life. These are the tales that have to be shared outdoors the Valley; solely then we can assist protect this historical craft.”