How Bandra’s ‘Bombay Daak’ Celebrates The Diversity Of India’s Daaru Chakna

“Daaru” and “Chakna” are important phrases related to Indian consuming tradition. The primary is a colloquial time period for any kind of alcohol, whereas the latter refers back to the snacks/sides usually served together with the drinks. One might draw a comparability to the combo of cocktails and small plates ceaselessly discovered at standard bars these days, however the essence of “daaru chakna” is decidedly desi and various – and that is what is widely known at Bombay Daak. This bar in Bandra is helmed by Chef Niyati Rao and Sagar Neve (the duo behind the award-winning Ekaa), with Yathish Bangera because the Head Mixologist.

The menus function regionally impressed delicacies, and most have anecdotes related to them. “I’ve at all times been enamoured with the consuming ‘kissa’s’ [stories] of many family members and shut mates and folks usually – and the way completely different but vibrant all of them are,” reveals Chef Niyati. Many of those discoveries sourced from her group have knowledgeable the curation of the menu. The group additionally performed months of analysis throughout the nation to know the intricacies of regional consuming traditions, their components and their historical past. They usually targeted not solely on the alcohol but in addition on the quite a few kinds of dishes it’s generally paired with. The bar’s title accommodates a journey motif too. It’s a reference to Bombay Duck or ‘Bombil’ – an area fish usually consumed together with alcohol in pre-colonial instances by folks belonging to the Koli group. The fish was once transported to Kolkata (then Calcutta) through a prepare service often called Bombay Daak (‘Daak’ means ‘mail’ in Hindi).

Bombay Daak blends pre-colonial Indian attraction, Japanese izakaya seating and a homely atmosphere. It isn’t simply the food and drinks – each aspect of the decor and atmosphere evokes nostalgia and enhances the general attraction of the bar: sugarcane juice glasses, engraved aluminium invoice containers from Gujarat, customized ceramic cups crafted by native artists, rustic metal plates, hand painted kitchen tiles, and so forth. Different distinctive parts embody a Gymkhana club-style “donor board” (with names of those that contributed to the bar’s imaginative and prescient) and classic lamps sourced from Chor Bazar – the latter was once a function at British gentleman’s cigar whiskey bar within the 1900s.

Photograph Credit score: Nikhil Vaidya

Bombay Daak’s drinks tasting menu affords an interactive and immersive expertise, permitting visitors to have interaction with the cooks and mixologists in an open kitchen setting. The a la carte menu contains hyper-local drinks in addition to “Swadeshi Sips” – house-made spirits that pay tribute to conventional Indian liquors in a artistic method. Every possibility has been rigorously sourced, crafted and offered. “One of the vital fascinating discoveries throughout our travels was in Coorg, the place locals craft Hen’s Eye Chili Wine – a fiery but fruity concoction that impressed our Parangi Malu cocktail, paired with jackfruit and low bitters for depth. And from Nagaland, we carry you Zutho – a drink impressed by a family-guarded recipe made with rice, ranu, and water, providing a style of the area’s wealthy fermentation tradition,” Yash explains. Different highlights embody cocktail variations of iconic native delicacies. For example, The Whistle Podu (gin, Rasam Powder Hydrosol, Amaro, Caramalised Tomato) is a ‘savoury’ alcoholic tackle South Indian Rasam. Equally, the Pahadi (with Tequila, Spiced Gin, Whey, Cucumber Juice, Buransh, Clarified Mint Cordial, Mustard Hydrosol) has been impressed by Kumaoni raita!

Photograph Credit score: Nikhil Vaidya

The chakna menu is an equally wealthy tapestry of flavours and tales from throughout the nation. Chef Niyati deftly transforms conventional types of these bar bites whereas placing a steadiness between authenticity and adaptableness. She explains, “We begin by respecting the integrity of regional flavours – the spices, methods, and pairings that outline them – whereas thoughtfully reinterpreting them to resonate with a cosmopolitan palate. This implies refining textures, calibrating spice ranges, and generally deconstructing conventional parts.”Each visitor is obtainable some free chakna to start out with: crisp potato papad dusted with a particular masala made by Chef Niyati’s mom and crushed schezwan chakli which is one other type of nostalgic nod. There’s ample selection not simply by way of vegetarian and non-vegetarian components, but in addition by way of different preferences.

Photograph Credit score: Nikhil Vaidya

When you can deal with fiery delights, the potent Zhanzanit Kakdi ought to be no problem. As an alternative, when you want one thing calming and healthful, go for the Tangra Hangover. This vegan providing options soy-stuffed wontons enveloped in an fragrant sesame emulsion. We’re advised it has been impressed by Chef Niyati’s stepfather, who used to move to Tangra at 3 am to relish wontons and noodle soup as his most popular “hangover breakfast” after consuming. The Wai-Wai is one other noteworthy snack and it is made with 23 completely different components. The group calls it “A Manipuri teenager’s ceremony of passage to maturity and consuming.” Extra particularly, it was impressed by Singju, a kachumber usually loved with the native liquor over there.

Photograph Credit score: Nikhil Vaidya

Among the many seafood, do not miss the signature Bombil, Bumaloo, Bombay Duck. The bar’s eponymous ingredient is plated as crisp fried bites topped with kismoor and crushed nori. Meat lovers can uncover the distinctive texture of Meghalayan Smoked Pork by ordering the hearty Pork & Smoke. When you’re simply dropping by for a fast chunk and drink, savour Chef’s twist on Parsi bakery hen puffs – Bombay Daak’s Duck Puff with a singular duck ghee roast filling. A few of these calibrations of robust flavours – whereas fascinating – can get fairly overwhelming when you strive too many in a single sitting. When you face such a dilemma, take consolation within the heat morsels of Maska Bread – a gorgeously delicate and buttery 110% Hydration bread enhanced by inexperienced mango and three kinds of cheese. When you’re in want of a candy repair, go for the Cheese Cherry Pineapple. Right here, the long-lasting skewers have been reimagined as a dessert that includes cheese biscuit, pineapple softie and Luxardo cherries.

Photograph Credit score: Nikhil Vaidya

“Indian consuming tradition has lengthy been overshadowed by worldwide influences, however at Bombay Daak, we goal to shift that narrative,” says Yathish Bangera. So when you’re stopping by Bombay Daak, you’ll be able to anticipate a scrumptious journey. You get a marvellous alternative to find India by sips and bites that mix novelty and familiarity.

Deal with: Store No – 5 / 21, ONGC Advanced, HIG Colony, Nityanand Nagar, Reclamation, Bandra West, Mumbai.