Kuppadam sarees: a woven tale of innovation, elegance and tradition

In a quiet nook of Andhra Pradesh, the place looms hum tales of historical past and heritage, the common-or-garden but regal Kuppadam saree continues to carry its floor as an emblem of custom, artistry and evolving id. Whereas most eyes flip to the celebrated Kanjeevarams or the intricate Banarasis, the Kuppadam saree tells its personal story, one which begins within the looms of a small city known as Chirala in Bapatla district, positioned close to the well-known Suryalanka Seashore.

What’s in a reputation?

Kuppadam saree will get its identify from a posh weaving approach known as Koopadam. Impressed by a must design temple sarees with elaborate zari borders resembling temple structure, weavers of this area started interlocking silk borders with cotton or silk over 150 years in the past. It was a radical departure from the common border stitching, which required an assistant weaver. This units Kuppadam saree from Kanjeevarams different conventional saree designs.

Each thread spun in these six-yard wonders speaks of a deep-rooted cultural legacy handed down generations, held collectively by the dexterous arms of weavers who mix artwork and heritage on each warp and weft.

Sajja Ramakrishna, who has been weaving the sarees for the previous three many years at Desaipeta village close to Chirala, says this distinctive approach required a particular set of abilities handed down orally from one era to the subsequent. Stretching a half-woven saree throughout a loom at his residence, Ramakrishna says there was a time when he thought his loom would go silent however is now blissful that the general public have as soon as once more begun to understand these exquisitely designed sarees.

Ramakrishna added that the looms utilized in Chirala, a portmanteau phrase derived from ‘chira’ that means saree and ‘ala’ that means wave, are largely pit looms. Handloom materials made in Chirala are well-known for softness and sturdiness and suite all climates. Chirala looms largely manufacture cotton and pure silk sarees with half superb zari, with jacquard weave and costume supplies. The saree measures 1.19 m by 6.50 m.

What units them aside

In contrast to common sarees the place the border and physique are woven in continuity, Kuppadam sarees employs a three-shuttle approach whereby the border and the physique are woven individually after which interlocked manually at each line—a painstaking, time-consuming course of requiring excessive precision, defined B. Rambabu, a grasp weaver who offers materials to staff and procures the completed product to promote out there or provide to retailers.

Silk used to make Kuppadam sarees, at Chirala city in Bapatla district.
| Photograph Credit score:
T. VIJAY KUMAR

On the coronary heart of the Kuppadam saree is a outstanding mix of cotton or silk physique and silk zari border, making it ideally suited for festive events in addition to common put on within the sultry local weather of coastal Andhra. The physique is often woven in vibrant colors of pink, maroon, inexperienced and blue, with motifs impressed by nature, folklore and temple murals. The hallmark of those sarees is their wealthy pallu (finish piece) and distinctive gold or silver zari borders that mirror grandeur with out the burden of full-silk sarees.

This light-weight enchantment, coupled with their affordability in comparison with pure silk sarees, has made them a staple in Andhra households, particularly throughout ceremonies similar to engagements, housewarmings and festivals like Sankranti and Ugadi.

Revival from extinction

By early 2000s, demand for Kuppadam sarees had dwindled because of the rise of energy looms and cheaper artificial imitations. The painstaking weaving was no match for the velocity and economics of machine-made sarees. As youthful generations moved away from the handloom career, the group of Kuppadam weavers started to shrink.

However simply then, a resurgence started. Quietly however firmly, initiatives such because the One District One Product (ODOP) scheme below the Ministry of Commerce and Trade gave weavers their much-needed assist. The State authorities has designated them because the ODOP for Bapatla district this 12 months, giving weavers a recent breath of life and recognition. The announcement was made by Babpatla District Collector J. Venkata Murali.

Siddi Venkata Buchheswara Rao, a service provider at Devangapuri close to Chirala, stated girls entrepreneurs and designer collectives had been now showcasing up to date variations of Kuppadam sarees, merging custom with innovation.

Evolving cultural significance

In Andhra tradition, gifting a Kuppadam saree to a bride or a daughter-in-law is seen as a gesture of class and familial satisfaction. The saree turns into greater than an outfit, it transforms right into a repository of reminiscence, worn throughout milestone moments similar to child showers, temple visits or the primary competition after marriage. 

Furthermore, the revival of this saree has had a major socio-economic influence. In accordance with authorities information, tons of of weaving households have resumed their looms in Chirala and neighboring villages. The weaving course of, usually a household endeavour, includes males working the looms whereas girls assist in dyeing, stretching the yarn, and post-weave gildings.  

Right now, one can discover Kuppadam sarees infused with fashionable aesthetics — digital motifs, up to date pastel shades, minimalistic borders — all of the whereas retaining the important koopadam craftsmanship. Designers are working intently with weavers to co-create restricted version sarees that enchantment to city shoppers and world markets.

Efforts are additionally below strategy to safe Geographical Indication (GI) standing for the saree, which might supply authorized safety and additional advertising and marketing benefit, says D. Venkateswara Rao, District Handlooms and Textiles Officer, Bapatla district. If secured, it can assist protect the weaving approach and defend artisans from exploitative imitation, he provides.

Within the whirl of quick vogue and digital consumption, the Kuppadam saree stays a sluggish and intentional artwork type. Each saree takes days to finish, and is a mirrored image of endurance, talent and a deep sense of satisfaction in heritage. Because the saree goes from looms of Chirala to the closets of consumers, it does greater than wrap a physique—it wraps generations of reminiscence, craft and tradition. And in doing so, it ensures that Andhra Pradesh’s threads of legacy by no means really unravel.

Revealed – June 28, 2025 08:14 am IST