Leaf-Wrapped Winter Squash With Pork and Shiitakes Recipe

[Photographs: Tim Chin]

Winter squash screams fall.* Between garish jack-o’-lanterns, warty gourds, and pumpkin spice all the things, the hefty, orange fruit is all over the place in autumn. And whereas I eat and revel in American winter squash classics—butternut soups, pumpkin breads and pies—”vacation fatigue” rapidly units in. Positive, these traditional preparations are comforting and acquainted, however an excessive amount of of a superb factor results in taking that good factor with no consideration. So how do you retain squash fascinating? How do you retain it scrumptious? And the way do you continue to seize the spirit of fall and household time?

*And, sure, winter.

My favourite squash recipe in current reminiscence was a dish we served at BISq, a restaurant in Cambridge, MA. We wrapped giant sections of blue kuri or acorn squash in banana leaves and roasted them till they had been fork-tender, and we served the squash merely, with a relish of pumpkin seeds and herbs. Whereas the dish was uncomplicated, it channeled the fragile flavors and textures of squash and elevated them: The banana leaf imparted an herbaceous, earthy taste, and the light, moist cooking technique stored the squash juicy with none trace of mealiness. The dish jogged my memory of lo mai gai (lotus leaf–wrapped sticky rice). So why not attempt to mix these dishes?

I’m right here to report that squash cooked in lotus leaf is, as my previous chef would put it, “nails” (it’s scrumptious). In comparison with banana leaves, lotus leaves have a sweeter, intensely tea-like taste that enhances the sweetness of squash. Due to that fragrant depth, I discovered that the dish held up effectively to the extra pungent and savory flavors historically present in lo mai gai: floor pork, dried shiitake mushrooms, garlic, soy sauce, and oyster sauce.

To maintain the cooking time comparatively quick and the serving easy, I reduce the squash into small items and fold them right into a cooked combination of the remaining elements earlier than steaming. Steaming the squash releases a substantial quantity of liquid, which may make the ensuing sauce skinny and watery, so I additionally add a small quantity of cornstarch to bind that extra liquid and produce a shiny sauce that coats the squash evenly. It is a easy, family-style facet dish that may maintain its personal anyplace—whether or not it’s within the weekly dinner rotation or on the vacation desk.

I examined this recipe with butternut squash, honeynut squash, blue kuri squash, and purple kuri squash; all of them labored effectively. If you happen to can’t discover lotus leaves, banana leaves work as effectively, however the taste can be completely different. You can too use parchment paper rather than the leaves—you will not get the flavour the leaves impart, however it’ll nonetheless create a moist cooking atmosphere.