You do not want a map to seek out Nksha, Churchgate’s latest fine-dining restaurant that opened just a few days in the past. Positioned on the bottom ground of Rehmat Manzil, diagonally reverse Churchgate station and round hundred metres from Marine Drive, Nksha is a part of a neighbourhood steeped within the historical past of town. North Indian influences suffuse the meals, drinks, interiors and extra. But it surely additionally goals to convey again the appeal related to the fine-dining tradition of Bombay within the ’50s and ’60s. The restaurant is the most recent providing by culinary duo Pranav M. Rungta and Chef Vikram Arora (of Churchgate Hospitality Non-public Restricted), who’re additionally behind Tamak in Santacruz, Zao Cha Home in Bandra and Sforno in Worli.
The placement gives a lot appeal, however the atmosphere can also be fast to move you to a distinct time and place. The dome motifs and rose gold accents reminded us of Rajasthani structure. However the lavishness was uniquely understated, which is supposed to trace at an affect from the Artwork Deco type, we had been informed. On the menu, we noticed genuine North Indian dishes in addition to experimental variations of some. The cocktail record featured drinks proudly impressed by the northern states, their heritage in addition to pure bounty. We couldn’t wait to get began.
Barely heated mini kachoris had been served as an amuse-bouche, which ready our palates for the wealthy treats to comply with. Earlier than we got here to extra genuine appetisers, we had been launched to a Truffle, Cheese and Mushroom Kulcha. Served within the type of small, stuffed semi-circles, this starter was one of many highlights of our night. Adorned with freshly grated white truffles on high, the kulcha was a divine mixture of all three flavours in its title. The moments spent savouring it had been pure bliss.
Subsequent, we had the chance to attempt three experimental ‘Chaat’ gadgets. The presentation of the Burrata Chaat made it virtually harking back to a crown: child burrata served on a tart base layered with hari chutney and tomato ki launji. We felt the bottom ought to have been softer, however in any other case, it did not disappoint. We additionally tasted the Norwegian Uncooked Salmon Chaat with jamun sirka, mirchi, peanut crunch and nimbu cheel. The addition of peanuts was a wise nod to typical chaat gadgets. Our favorite, nevertheless, was the Chandni Chowk “Dahi Bhalla Papri Chaat,” containing an uncommon ingredient: berries. We had been fascinated by this addition, and the chef revealed that the inspiration behind this dish was the development of yoghurt and smoothie bowls. To our shock, the mix truly labored: with the berries offering the tangy hit often given by tomatoes or tamarind in chaat.
Among the many appetisers, a basic reigned supreme. We’re nonetheless relishing the recollections of the Shahjanabadi AKA “Previous Delhi” Paneer Tikka. Seasoned with brown onion, garlic and yellow chilli, this tikka was yellowish slightly than reddish in color. Though cooked twice – as soon as within the tandoor and later in a pan – the paneer retained its creamy softness to a pleasant diploma. Extra melt-in-the-mouth appetisers had been to comply with: a pan-fried Beetroot Shammi Kebab with a refreshing mouthfeel and a Porcini and Button Mushroom Galouti Kebab with kewra, rose petals and cream cheese. Whereas scrumptious in its personal proper, it appeared barely just like the kulcha we tried earlier. Given a selection, we might go for the kulcha. The Freeway Rooster Tikka, cooked in mustard oil, bore a basic pink color. It was a bit tart to style, with out being overly spicy, which we had been grateful for.
Mixologist Varun Sudakar has ingeniously curated the cocktails at Nksha. The signature ones pay homage to the flavours, components, cooking practices in addition to inventive types of North India. We first tried the Hawa Mahal cocktail with rose-infused vodka and cold-pressed pomegranate juice. The beautiful color of the cocktail was actually harking back to the Pink Metropolis and the eponymous monument. The citrus was a tad overpowering, however the flavours had been promising. We additionally sipped on The Foothill, made utilizing Kashmiri lavender-infused gin, apple juice and kawa syrup. It was pleasing to get the trace of kawa in addition to apple in a cocktail – and we had been briefly transported to the Himalayas. We additionally appreciated the Desi Ghee cocktail – the title actually caught our eye. Made utilizing ghee-washed rum, umeshu, bitters and thumps up, the drink had a warming high quality one might solely affiliate with ghee! The mixologist defined that the cocktail was meant to mirror the culinary practices of North India – therefore the addition of ghee in addition to charred lime as garnish. Other than choices like these, one may also select to pair their meal with basic cocktails, wines and non-alcoholic coolers.
Earlier than we moved on, we feasted on sticks of jamun kulfi with black salt. It was meant to be a palate cleanser, however the richness of the jamun (and the absence of any kind of diluting components) made it a deal with in itself. We then ready ourselves for the principle course. An fascinating discovery among the many vegetarian dishes was the Rajasthani Gulab Jamun Ki Sabzi. The curd-based gravy with ginger, onion, coriander and hing bore small items of the favored candy dish, and the end result was fairly satisfying. For a spicier possibility, we went with the Kacchi Mirch Ka Paneer with bhavnagari chillies and an onion-tomato gravy. We additionally appreciated the Daryaganj Rooster Changezi, which had a barely comparable gravy base and tender items of boneless hen. Nonetheless, this time once more, a easy basic received our hearts: Dal Nksha. That is the restaurant’s model of dal makhani (or kali dal), containing onion, tomatoes, kasturi methi, however no garlic. Their flavours had been very a lot current, together with the comforting creaminess of the dal preparation. To scoop it up, we had a tokri of rotis and naans to select from.
The desserts, like the atmosphere, had been beautiful however not overpowering. The Brioche Shahi Tukda had a delicate trace of pistachio and rose, and was luxuriously smooth to dig into. The Mirchi Ka Halwa, made utilizing capsicum and bhavnagari chillies, was simply barely candy and boasted a vibrant inexperienced color. No spiciness after all, however an fascinating flavour for a halwa nonetheless. What we actually loved was the Coin Jalebi Rabri: mini circles of jalebis served semi-submerged in a wealthy rabri. The jalebis had a particular saffron flavour and had been playfully crisp to style.
Nksha impressed us with its capacity to deftly steadiness theatrics with simplicity. It stayed true to its roots but additionally managed to point out us a brand new means of appreciating dishes we have now loved all our lives. Complemented by its revolutionary cocktails and royal atmosphere, it guarantees a holistic advantageous eating expertise on this beloved nook of town.
The place: Nksha, ADCB Rehmat Manzil, 1A / 1B, Veer Nariman Rd, Churchgate, Mumbai.
When: 12:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. and seven:00 p.m. to 12 a.m.
