Three Fashion Labels Reviving Indian Crafts Like Aari, Pattachitra & Shibori with a Modern Twist

Pattachitra panels @ Kunsquad

Pallabi Sarangi, Priyabrata Mohapatra and Abhishek Deo might need completely different backgrounds (trend and enterprise respectively) however joined forces in 2021 to launch Kunsquad. “We shared this starvation to create one thing that felt private, experimental, and expressive. What started as informal brainstorming slowly was moodboards, samples, concepts scribbled on tissue papers,” says Pallabi, 28. For these questioning what the model’s identify means, ‘Kuns’ means artwork in Afrikaans, and ‘squad’ stands for the workforce behind it.

Their first assortment Wabi Sabi – A Love Letter to the Self was a restricted version assortment of T-shirts and trousers. Their most up-to-date drop, the Pattachitra assortment — comprising unisex T-shirts, trousers, and corset tops — was their means of bringing heritage storytelling from Odisha into at the moment’s avenue tradition. “We now have taken the intricate hand-painted artwork, often seen on scrolls and temples, and translated it into outsized, genderless silhouettes. It’s a tribute to the place we come from, but additionally a revolt towards how custom is often boxed in,” explains Pallabi. Analysis included a visit to Raghurajpur, a small village close to Puri, Odisha, “the place pattachitra has been saved alive for generations”. “Standing there, we knew this assortment needed to honour the soul of the craft. We made a aware resolution to not digitise the prints. As a substitute, we collaborated instantly with the artists to hand-paint every bit. We selected supplies like denim, kala cotton, khadi cotton, and comfortable cotton jersey as these materials can maintain hand-painted detailing,” she says.

Outfits from the Pattachitra assortment
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The method, she says, was intense. “We have been co-ordinating with a number of artisans, going by means of numerous trials, experimenting with surfaces, and making an attempt to supply naturally dyed materials wherever doable. Some supplies rejected the paint, some designs didn’t translate properly.”

The trio is now working in direction of making a flagship house, and new collabs for upcoming collections. 

Upwards of ₹3,500 on kunsquad.com

Zero Tolerance works with artisans throughout Uttar Pradesh who hand-spin, hand-weave materials and use algae-based pigment dyes
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Block tales @ Zero Tolerance

“I didn’t come from a trend background,” says 27-year-old Prakhar Rao Chandel, who graduated inJournalism however later switched to trend. “After I graduated, I spent a yr researching cultural id, storytelling, and trend — which in the end led me to begin Zero Tolerance in 2020,” he says, including that Zeeshan Akhtar, his childhood buddy, joined the model as co-founder later that yr.

Outfits at Zero Tolerance
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The model, championing Indian crafts and their makers, began with collections comparable to Proud Browns, Wild on the Streets, and a collaborative capsule with artist Sameera Sardana. “these  have been “extra visible and graphic in nature”. “I didn’t have entry to artisan clusters, so I labored with what I had: tales to inform and a ardour for South Asian id.” Later, he travelled, met NGOs, related with textile engineers, and constructed his indigenous provide chain. “That led to collections like Homecoming, which featured handwoven materials, handspun yarn, and conventional embroidery, and it felt like a second the place every part clicked — the place my storytelling met the soil,” says Prakhar, who now works with artisans throughout Uttar Pradesh who hand-spin, hand-weave materials and use algae-based pigment dyes.

An artisan at Zero Tolerance
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Prakhar remembers his childhood days when he tagged alongside together with his mom to her boutique and was “mesmerised” by the tailoring course of. “I didn’t comprehend it then, however that was the second one thing sparked. The concept that cloth may maintain which means, story, and intention — that stayed with me,” says Prakhar, including how his school years and a semester overseas in London had him delve deeper into the humanities.

Karm, was crafted in Lucknow, and debuted at London Style Week in September 2024
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His most up-to-date line, Karm, was crafted in Lucknow and debuted at London Style Week in September 2024. Spotlighting methods like hand-spun cotton, handwoven cloth, aari, and zardozi embroidery, the 11-piece assortment comprised useful fits for males, co-ord units, shirts, and jorts. Prakhar says it was “rooted within the thought of vitality imprint — that each sew carries the karma, the laborious work, and the contact of the artisan”. 

Karm comprised useful fits for males, co-ord units, shirts, and jorts
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At present engaged on the model’s SS’25 assortment Virasat, Prakhar says it’s a homage and reimagination of royal block printing from Uttar Pradesh. For this, he has collaborated with Hari Shankar Pandey, a block printer who has been practising because the Nineteen Fifties. “He makes use of 100+ year-old blocks sourced from a royal archive in Pratapgarh, and we’re honored to assist carry his work into modern design,” he says, of the gathering of skirts, clothes, shackets, and extra.

Upwards of ₹5,500 on ztinternational.co/

For Like Water, the workforce labored with 36 artisans throughout 18 areas utilizing 32 completely different crafts
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Shibori meerts Rabari @ Kardo

For founder Rikki Kher, the model’s journey began from a private place. “I used to be making garments for myself and was inspired to show that right into a enterprise. Whereas I initially explored a web based mannequin, I shortly shifted to a extra conventional path, focussing on worldwide wholesale,” says the 54-year-old. With a background in trend, Rikki “needed to push again towards quick trend” and launched Kardo in 2013. 

Like Water contains shirts, co-ord units, clothes, and skirts
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Kardo, he says, was constructed as a “slower” platform to spotlight conventional methods. “Our early collections have been easy, well-tailored, and made with handwoven materials and craft processes,” he says. The primary assortment, he explains, included Jodhpuri fits made in cotton French Terry jersey (that sweatshirts are made with), handloom denim fits, khadi shirts, ikat weaves, and deadstock camouflage. 

Artisans at Kardo
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Rikki’s most up-to-date drops — Like Water and Sadda Vedha — proceed to spotlight craft methods. “For Like Water, we labored with 36 artisans throughout 18 areas utilizing 32 completely different crafts and making 62 materials,” says Rikki, who works with artisan clusters throughout the nation. The gathering comprising shirts, co-ord units, clothes, and skirts consists of block printing, hand-embroidery, pure dyeing, Gond portray, shibori dyeing, Rabari appliqué work, to call a number of.

Outfits from Like Water
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As for Sadda Vedha, the SS26 assortment drop, Rikki says he returned to the concept of the courtyard, additionally referred to as aangan. “It’s an area that’s been central to houses throughout India. It’s the place households collect, tales are shared, and reminiscences are quietly made within the rhythm of on a regular basis life. This assortment is rooted in that feeling of stillness, heat, and togetherness.” With khadi and embroidery as distinguished sides of the vary comprising shirts, shorts, trousers and jackets., Rikki says crafts comparable to ari, ikkat, and phulkari, have been used alongside handloom weaving methods.

Upwards of ₹3,250 on kardo.co