The 40-year-old Neapolitan playfully embellished a basic wardrobe with glittering chokers, sequined tank tops and satin bomber jackets.
The autumn/winter 2024-25 programme, which runs till Tuesday, additionally marks the return of Fendi, which final June chosen to current its males’s assortment in its new leather-based workshops close to Florence.
De Sarno, who spent 14 years at Valentino after stints at Prada and Dolce & Gabbana, took over at Gucci in January 2023.
He was introduced in by French house owners Kering to assist relaunch the long-lasting however struggling luxurious model.
Gucci fashions strutting their stuff inside an enormous hangar in Milan’s outskirts confirmed off ultra-long ties hanging all the way down to their thighs, worn like scarves over double-breasted fits — and even over a naked torso.
‘Joie De Vivre’
“It is a story of joie de vivre, ardour, humanity, folks, actual life, irreverent glamour, provocation, confidence, simplicity, emotions and fast feelings,” the designer stated within the present notes.The color palette is on the sober facet, starting from gray to royal blue, black to white, burgundy purple and olive inexperienced, echoing the shades utilized in his first girls’s assortment, introduced in September.
Each collections verify the break with former star designer Alessandro Michele, who was identified for his eccentric designs and off-beat exhibits.
De Sarno’s girls’s assortment has solely been on sale because the starting of 2024 after Gucci — which represents greater than half of Kering’s gross sales — noticed its income fall 13 % within the third quarter of 2023, in a slowing luxurious market.
“The Gucci model is in a transition part,” stated Luca Solca, analyst at Bernstein.
“The artistic reinvention below Alessandro Michele introduced nice outcomes however after some time, as with all the things, it acquired drained.”
“Immediately, Gucci should discover a new vitality and new concepts to excite prospects,” he informed AFP — including that in his opinion, the basic look of De Sarno’s first girls’s line was not sufficient, significantly for Chinese language patrons.
– Youthful Viewers –
“Gucci works when it is excessive,” he stated, pointing to earlier collections below Tom Ford and Michele, whose designs reached out to a youthful and extra numerous viewers.
The model was additionally hit final November by its first ever strike.
Round 40 artisans from Gucci’s design studio downed instruments for 4 hours, saying plans to maneuver a lot of the group from Rome to Milan was a “mass redundancy in disguise”.
A commerce union consultant, Chiara Giannotti, informed AFP that no collective settlement had been reached because the walk-out however stated manufacturing had not been affected by the dispute.
Armani, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi are among the many different massive names exhibiting their males’s collections in Milan, though Valentino is returning to exhibiting in Paris.
Males’s trend has for a very long time been within the shadow of the ladies’s collections however Solca stated this was altering as massive names paid extra consideration.
After a robust rebound from the difficulties sparked by the coronavirus pandemic, with progress of 20.3 % in 2022, the Italian males’s trend business recorded extra modest progress of 4.9 % in 2023.
Turnover within the wider Italian trend sector rose by 4 % final yr however efficiency was uneven, with sturdy progress within the first quarter falling away as geopolitical tensions rose later within the yr.
“These are usually not years of frenetic progress however at this second you will need to maintain on and we’re holding on,” stated Carlo Capasa, head of the Italian chamber of trend.